Sunday, November 6, 2011

Eating our way through the North End - Day 2

We met a couple on the Charleston food tour who had recently visited Boston and highly recommended the Boston Food Tours through the North End.  After reading more about it, and reviews, we decided it would be a great way to learn more about that area of the city, the history, and culinary culture.

We started at Caffe Graffiti where Jim, our guide and former chef, shared with us the history of the area and culture and described what we would be doing on our tour.  (It wasn't going to be like other tours we've been on where we go to restaurants and try prepared dishes.  We were going to stores where the locals shop for ingredients they use.  But rest assured, we'd be doing quite a bit of tasting.)


During the introduction, Jim explained how back when the immigrants first came to the US they had to substitute ingredients and how "some places" (another pastry shop that begins with "M") still follow the same practice.  For example, traditional cannolis use ricotta cheese.  But because cheese was expensive and not readily available, some places substituted pastry cream for the filling thus making the cannolis very sweet.  (Remember the previous post???)

Maria's Pastry is a family run operation and has been around for 29 years.  It's small but the aroma of anise wafting through the air greets you like a big hug when you enter.


Jim reminds everyone that there is "No Self Service" here.  You tell Maria what you want and she will get them for you. 

Homemade marzipan!

Sfogliatelle (clamshell)

Sfogliatelle (Lobster tails)


Oh my goodness!  Samples galore - carrot marzipan, clamshell, toto, biscotti, Ossa di Morti (bones of the dead for All Saints Day).

Maria doing what she loves!

Enough said!

Maria's became our favorite pastry shop and we returned two times!  For those who need a regular fix and can't get to Boston, they will ship anywhere in the US.

Our next stop was Polcari's Coffee (and more) shop.


Beans, flour and other dried ingredients.

Ever seen licorice root?

Salted capers!  Cheaper than the jarred kind and last longer!
 A few tidbits we learned while in Polcari's: 
* What we buy as cinnamon is really cassia.  Click here for info.
* Nutella - the Italian chocolate hazelnut spread.  I was surprised!
US Nutella (made in Canada)=plastic jar, trans fats, more sugar
Italian Nutella (imported) =glass jar, no trans fat, less sugar
So the next time you're in the store, check in out.

A little green grocer that was too tiny for us to fit in.  The owner goes to the large farmer's market every day.  No prices on the produce, but he knows what to charge.  And NO TOUCHING of the produce.  You tell him what you want and he gets it, thus eliminating lots of squeezing the tomatoes.

Jim showing us fennel.  He also told us about the difference between male and female eggplants.  (Who knew!)  He said that when he comes back in the afternoon there will only be female eggplants left.  (The male eggplants have smaller and fewer seeds making them easier to work with and less moisture.)

Fennel and figs

A very educational stop!

Whether it was a cab driver or guide, everyone was very proud of the movie "The Town" having been filmed in Boston. 

This laundromat was given a facelift and new facade to look like a bank for the movie. 

Monica's Mercato - one of three parts (grocery, restaurant, wine bar)

We enjoyed amazing prosciutto on a thin slice of their homemade bread.

The beautiful patina!

The Old North Church peeking above a building.

Another small shop known for it's cheese, salami, olive oil and vinegar.


Like wine, olive oil goes through different pressings.


Quite a variety!






No pictures allowed, but let's just say they have the most extensive wine collection (from around the world) and it's not a Total Wine store.

After our wonderful tour ended, we decided to walk along the Greenway back to the hotel. 
This is the last part of the Big Dig where the interstate is underneath and this beautiful 1.5 mile stretch of park/sidewalk now resides. 


The Greenway and common areas in the Financial District are where the Occupy Boston protestors have set up camp.  It reminded us so much of the protest camps we saw this summer in Madrid and Barcelona.





Our friends Ronnie and Bonnie came to Boston for the game as well.  We made plans in advance for dinner at the historic Union Oyster House

Bonnie, Frank, Leann, Ronnie, Ray and Bonnie

 It wasn't until someone (a nice Japanese tourist) came to the table and wanted to take a picture, that we realized how lucky we were with our seating assignment! 

Appetizers of mussels, oysters and chowder.

Everyone donned the obligatory bib before diving into their lobsters!


After dinner we walked through the New England Holocaust Museum.  My picture does not do these memorials any justice.  Inscribed on the glass panels are six million numbers representing the infamous tattooed numbers of those in the camps. 

There are no shortage of drinking establishments in Boston.  We couldn't find seats at one so we ventured to The Green Dragon.


And so another day in Boston comes to an end.  We covered a lot of territory and learned so much in just one day!

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