Thoughts on Panama

Now that we've been back in the states for a few days, we've had a chance to reflect on our time in Panama. We are so grateful to Raquel for introducing her country to us and being our personal tour guide and interpreter.

I'm not sure what I was expecting in Panama. Sure, I'd read the travel books, but I guess I wasn't fully prepared for what we would see or experience.

Panama is a beautiful country. Flying over the 'S-shaped' piece of land it is quite awe-inspiring to see the lush green trees, rolling hills and mountains. (I didn't realize how mountainous Panama was!) And oh yes, there's the Canal. There were hundreds of ships waiting their turn to enter the canal. From the plane, they appeared as small toy boats, but upclose, well that was a different story.

Once you touch down, Panama City is an entirely different world. Many people, lots of cars and brightly colored buses, lots of horns honking, many buildings (skyscrapers and condos), lots of construction and did I mention lots of honking?

Panama City is not a walking city. The buses and taxis are the only 'priorities', everyone else (whether driving or walking) has to fend for themselves. While Panama is not a third-world country, it is definitely a country of 'have and have-nots'. There are numerous indigenous people that live in the city as well as out in the country, mountains and coastal towns. The PanAmerican Highway is a long stretch of road that is really the only way through the country. For stretches, it is a fast-paced 4-lane paved highway and in others, it is a slow 2-lane pot-hole filled road.

In the two weeks we were with Tom & Raquel, we really covered a lot of territory. The town of El Valle was absolutely stunning. The colors so bright and vibrant, the landscape lush and green and the people warm and friendly. The coastal town of Santa Clara was a little more rural, but being right on the beach was fantastic! Regardless of where you are, you are never far from a fresh market (with all sorts of fruits and vegetables). In fact, many of the vendors travel door-to-door selling their wares (oranges, shrimp, coconuts, etc.) Boquete was a small city and home to the coffee plantations. The backdrop was blue skies with large mountains and volcanoes, where the tops are hidden by clouds. Again, the people helpful and friendly.

The gastronomic portion of our travels was fantastic and many times we would be planning dinner while at breakfast. Every meal was freshly prepared and oh so tasty!

As mentioned, we are grateful to Raquel for her tour guide and interpreter skills as well as being the chauffer while in the 'big cities'. We did ok with our Spanish, but if it weren't for Raquel, we might have ended up with a few tickets from the local authorities, eaten innards of some animal, or turned left when we should have turned right.

A year ago, at Gasparilla, an idea was hatched for a 'Friends Trip to Panama'. For the latter part of our trip, we were fortunate to have friends from Tampa join us. It was very special to have Ray and Lily along, especially since the speak Spanish, but more importantly, Ray was stationed there 30+ years ago and hadn't been back since. While in Panama City, we had the opportunity to live vicariously through Ray and 'revisit' his old stomping grounds and places familiar to him. Lily visited Panama about 10 years ago so she was curious if any changes happened while she was gone. And she was pleasantly surprised. Ken & Victoria had never been, but were excited about the opportunity to see a new country and to go fishing.

All in all, we had a wonderful trip to Panama and our time with good friends made it an even more enjoyable experience!

Last Day in Boca Chica and return to Panama City

Our last day in Boca Chica was a fishing day and we were all VERY excited as the Captain saved the 'big game day' for last. We would head out at 6:30 AM because we had a 2 hour boat ride to and island near Hannibal Bank.

Another beautiful sunrise over the lagoon.

The winds and seas were a bit higher than we anticipated, but a little water didn't hurt us....we were on our way to get the big fish! This was another boat heading out the same time we were. The water was perfect conditions for bill fish - the chop provided some cover for the fish and combined with the splashing of the lures/teasers, we were certain to attract some fish.

We all agreed Frank would be first up to fight the big fish!

Frank in action...unfortunately, it was only a bonita and we all agreed it didn't count as Frank's turn. We spent numerous hours chasing birds, splashes at the surface, smooth spots, flotsam, turtles, anything that is a 'usual' indicator of fish. We tracked down several large pods of porpoise. While they are fun to watch, they are not good to have around when trying to fish.

We had lots of 'thefts' during our fishing expedition. We got a hit relatively early, but the Mate, Louis, said a wahoo swiped one of our lures. After another 2 hours of trolling around, I happened to spot a dark fin in the water, followed by a long slender tailfin and suggested the Captain circle back around. Sure enough something hit our bait, but didn't take the hook. A few minutes later, something hit the spinning rod with the teaser. And in a matter of seconds, the reel was empty and the fish was gone! Needless to say, we were all very upset and extremely! (A note about Gone Fishing Panama will be at the end of the blog.)

We surprised Victoria with a birthday cake the last night of our stay in Boca Chica. Lupe made a delicious lemon cake. (We have been trying all week to figure out how we can bring Lupe home and share her between the 3 couples.)

Ray & Lily took advantage of the music and dancefloor.

Since we couldn't take her with us, we made sure we had one last picture with Lupe.

Flying back to Panama City, was another opportunity to view the country. Hard to see, but these boats are waiting their turn to get through the Panama Canal.

Bridge of the Americas and Panama Canal.

Back in Panama City, all tanned and ready for dinner.

Tom & Raquel returned from their adventures to the Pearl Islands and made arrangements for dinner at a wonderful Italian restaurant in Panama City. It was very special to have dinner with them the last night in the country as it had been a year since Ray, Lily, Ken & Victoria had seen them...a year ago when the plan to visit Panama had been hatched.

All in all, we had a wonderful time in Panama!

**Gone Fishing Panama Resort: This is not the place for the serious off-shore fisherman. The Captain is not "invested" in the sport. If he were, his boat would be better maintained (i.e. live well broken, front seat split and constantly wet, and fuel gauges working), his tackle would be sharp and throughly checked, his reels would be serviced on a regular basis and he would have done a safety review before leaving the dock. Also, the Captain and owner's son are 2-3 pack-a-day cigarette smokers and don't care where they are or who is around when they light up. It is very difficult to get away from the smoke when they walk through the common areas (bar and dining area) or you're on the boat. The grounds of the resort were very nice. Each room had a theme and were nicely appointed. All the meals were top-quality! Thankfully the fantastic attitude and service from Lupe, Ares, Uri, Felix and Louis made our experience a plesant one.

Day 4 - Bay Crest Chronicles continue

Tuesday was our 'off day' where we originally planned to explore the town and perhaps an excursion somewhere. Well, the 'town' was only about 3 blocks square and if you blinked, you would miss it. So, we decided to hang out around the resort. Not a bad way to spend the day....lazy breakfast, relaxing by the pool, cocktails at the bar, and a guaranteed yummy dinner, ala Lupe.

Lily and Ricky-Rick. He's definitely a ladies man!

The only time Ricky-Rick was nice to Ken.

Two wild and crazy guys: Uri and Ares. Great in the kitchen and behind the bar!

At breakfast, Ray said he had a surprise for us. When Ares presented this 'thing', we were all a bit taken aback. Turns out, this is the cashew fruit! And the little green thing on top is the nut! It grows on a tree and when fully ripe is a beautiful yellow-red color. The fruit has an unusual flavor and texture - a bit sweet and tart with kind of a spongy texture. Interesting to say the least. The US does not grow any cashews...and now we know why they are so expensive! But oh so tasty!

Some of the neighborhood horses. There were about half a dozen of them that would roam the area.

After our morning walk up the hill.

So what do you do when not on the boat...read a magazine about boats.

Where there's a hammock, you'll find Frank.

Lupe, the cook at the resort, was unbelievable! She made so many special Panamanian dishes for us. This is the sancocho she fixed for dinner one night. It's like a hearty chicken soup - chicken, yucca, corn, spices, etc. With rice, plantains and a side of marinated veggies, it was a complete meal. At Lily's request, she even make 'crunchy rice' which is rice cooked a little longer until it's golden brown and tasty crunchy. Delicious!

This became 'our table'.

We all enjoyed the day, getting caught up on reading and music. It was an early to bed night since we had to be on the boat by 6:30 the next morning. Watch out Mr. Marlin...here we come!

Day 3 - Fishing in Panama Chronicles Continue

Monday was the day we were all going on the boat and we were really looking forward to it!

Ken reads the orders: Ares, the resort manager, gave us the 'shopping list' - 2 snapper, 4 dorado, 2 tuna (no less than 105 pounds each) and a picture of each of us with a blue marlin. Those were tall orders...remember, we are catching to feed everyone at the resort!

The Hickorywood Hookers together again for a day of fishing. :) And oh yes, the guys were along too.

Felix, the Mate and Louis, the Captain did a fabulous job in getting us to 'the spot' which was about 23 miles from base camp. We had a fun day on the water and while we didn't check everything off the list, we brought back dinner!

Ray & Lily took the prize for the catch of the day, 2 Cubera Snapper (Lily's was 30 pounds and Ray's was 28 pounds).

Dinner was fresh mango salsa, snapper ala Bruce, peas with mushrooms and onions and baked potato preceeded by a scrumptious eggplant soup! Needless to say, we have not gone hungry!

Day 2 - Chronicles of the Bay Crest Buddies in Boca Chica

Sunday was our first full day in Boca Chica and everyone was extremely excited....This was THE day we'd all been looking forward to! It was the first day of fishing in Panama!

Frank, Ken, Ray (not in the picture) and I were ready for breakfast at 6:30 and on the boat at 7:00AM!

It's pretty amazing the rock formations that line the coast of Panama! Not something we're used to when fishing in Stuart.

Frank taking a much deserved break after fighting and landing the biggest Dorado (mahi mahi or dolphin, depending on where you are) of the day....within the first 20 minutes of lines being in the water.

Captain Bruce said women are great fishermen...they are patient and listen to directions. :o)

More rocks.

The Three Amigos!

While traveling from one fishing spot to the next, we saw so many magnificent structures. Makes you wonder how many years it's taken to wear car-sized holes in the rocks.

Yes, you could say it was a good day of fishing, but we think it was a GREAT day!

Lupe, the wonderful cook at the resort, made the most delicious meal from the fish we caught. Not only did the fish we caught feed the 6 of us, but the other guests at the resort, the owners and employees as well as anyone who had stopped in. Talk about pressure!

Each night, the menu includes the 'Catch of the Day' and some other meat, just in case... When Lupe presented the options for the ways she could fix the fish, we couldn't select just one. So, she generously served our table family-style with a sampling of each: from lower left - garlic, lime; coconut battered; soy-teriyaki with fresh veggies; rice and beans along with the sweetest plantains (cooked to perfection in pineapple and her homemade jam). Needless to say, if anyone left the table hungry, it was their own fault!

We called it an early evening and headed off to bed for another early morning of fishing.

Day 1 in Boca Chica

Some technology hiccups have prevented computer access for a few days....along with very full days of fishing. With out further adieu, we begin the Chronicles of the Bay Crest Buddies in Boca Chica:

Six very excited people at the 'little airport' in Panama City, after we've checked our bags (all weighing less than 30 pounds), confessed our weight and age and convinced the nice guy in line behind us to delay his check-in a few more minutes to take our picture.

A view of the Panama coastline along the Pacific from the puddle-jumper.

Donna, proprietor-extraordinaire of the Gone Fishing Panama Resort, greeting us at the airport. Little did she know what she was in for!

A view of the landscape on our ride from David (pronounced Da-Veed) to Boca Chica. Who knew Panama had so many mountains??

Victoria, Ken and Lily wasted no time before hopping into the vanishing edge pool overlooking the lagoon below the resort. Ahhhh, so nice!

El Barko (the boat). Fortunately, this is the smaller boat used to taxi us to various locations around Boca Chica, not the one we would use to go 20+ miles offshore. Yes, that's a hammock in the boat. Surprised not to see Frank in it?

The evening began with a cocktail at sunset.

Dinner our first night was 'surf and turf'. We stocked up on the turf part before departing for Boca Chica and feasted on African lobster. Delicious!

Paradise Gardens in Boquete

One of the things Boquete is known for are the beautiful flowers, gardens and birdlife. It was recommended that we visit Paradise Gardens. Turns out, it is more than a garden. There are beautiful gardens, but the real treasure is the rescued birds and native animals that call Paradise Gardens home. Three years ago, Jenny and Paul came to Panama from England where he was a master stonemason and they both had a strong affinity for feathered creatures. Most of the stones in the Centre were imported from England and Paul seems to have found the perfect spot for each one of them.

Upon entering the gates, you are surrounded by beautiful flowering plants and trees, whimsical garden statues, and the cheerful chirping of many birds. Before beginning the tour, you are asked to make a $5 donation. You can see from just the short walk to the gathering area there is a lot of work with the gardens and animals. Most of the labor is provided by volunteers. But there are a few paid gardeners. Many of the veterinarians offer their services gratis.

This margay (a medium-sized jungle cat) was confined in so small a space, that its tail is permanently crooked. It will never survive in the wild because it needs a fully functioning tail for balance, etc.

Our guide shared a story of how some of the locals would sell birds, the canaries fetch a higher price. However, the canaries they were selling weren’t yellow or canaries, they were ordinary green parrots that had been bleached, and then dyed, so they could be sold for more money.

This tamirin (monkey) and his 2 brothers are affectionately called 'The Gangsters'.

Toucans. If you look closely at the one in the back, you'll notice that he doesn't have many/much tail feathers. This is because he was stuffed in a cage and in order for him to fit (considering his beak is so big), his wings and tail feathers were clipped. Hopefully they will grow back.

In the beautiful Japanese garden.


A very friendly Capuchin monkey.



You can't help but smile when you see this pretty pink cockatiel.



These Macaws have a good life! They have a long 'run' where they fly back and forth all the time.

The highlight of the visit...getting to hold the two-toed Sloth. He and a sibling were just babies when their mother was killed by a local for food. His fur is so soft, but watch out for those nails/claws!

Our experience was amazing and I'm really glad we spent the time we did visiting the Rescue Center!

No visit to the Paradise Gardens Rescue Center is complete until you've stopped up the road at the Strawberry Shack. We had been talking about it all morning and in spite of the weather being a bit cooler (due to unseasonable winds), we were looking forward to strawberry ice cream! We get to the counter and alas....they are out of strawberry ice cream! So, we opted for a strawberry shake, strawberries with whipped cream and a couple of cones with flavors other than strawberry. It was yummy!

Upcoming adventures in Panama....Cafe Ruiz Coffee Plantation!