Tuesday, June 21, 2011

That about sums it up!

Our trip to Spain and Portugal, that is.  We learned about the FSU cruise from Barcelona-to-Lisbon in early 2011.  And since this would be our first trip to these countries, we wanted to spend additional time before and after the cruise in Madrid, Barcelona, Lisbon. 
             • Some things booked were with travel agent at AAA (hotels and some tours).
             • Some things we found on our own (food tours, etc.). 
                   o We like the smaller groups and unique or off-the-beaten path tours.

We anticipated the weather would be hot, like Florida, but it turned out to be rainy and much cooler! Fortunately, we continued to check the forecasts before departing and were able to pack accordingly. (OK, it was a last minute switch of shorts for long pants and the addition of light-weight sweaters/rain coats.)

Al l the hotels were in great locations. Walking distance to all the major squares and/or meeting points for tours. City maps were terrific and we found ourselves becoming quite comfortable navigating our way around.

We had forgotten about the delicious breakfast that comes with the hotel reservation! (Full buffets of hot dishes and meats, fresh fruits, cheeses, creamy yogurts, tasty breads, pastries and of course strong coffee.) This is the first trip where we might have actually lost a few pounds (or at the minimum, haven’t gained any weight)! I guess there is something to be said for the Mediterranean diet and all the walking.

Because American History is so ‘young’ in comparison, it’s difficult to appreciate the museums, palaces/castles, cathedrals and antiquities of these countries whose history goes back thousands of years. Nonetheless, we took an opportunity in each city to explore a few of their national monuments.

We have been pleasantly surprised how quiet these large cities are. There is very little horn honking, street noise, sirens, etc., even though there are lots of cars, buses and police. (I guess our point of reference has been large cities in Italy, France and Greece.) In addition, Spain and Portugal seem to be compulsively clean! People in bright green coveralls with brooms and push bins are constantly sweeping the sidewalks and parks.

There is also something to be said for the lovely tree-lined parks and avenues. Benches and places to sit can be found every couple of yards. The practice of siestas and tapas are something we might be able to get used to as well. However, eating dinner at 10PM isn’t.

The “state of the nation” (economic and unemployment situation) in Spain and Portugal has generated many protests, all peaceful.  But we have felt very comfortable walking around the cities during the day and in the early evening, and are mindful of our bags and wallets. The panhandlers are around, but not nearly as bad as at home or even Italy and France.

We stuck to our commitment of eating foods each country is known for, with selections being a bit easier (to decipher) in Spain than Portugal. Portuguese is such a difficult language and even with our cheat-sheet (and English-like menus), we weren’t always 100% confident in placing our order. But everything we’ve tried has been delicious!

We have tried to keep the blog up to date, but time and technology have prevented updates as frequently as we (and our loyal followers) would have liked.

Technology has improved tremendously since our last trip to Europe six years ago. We were prepared with a flash drive for dumping pictures and even took a small laptop. With an American keyboard, typing is much easier and it gave us another place to offload pictures. We were spoiled right off the bat with free (and moderately fast) wireless at the hotel in Madrid. Wireless was available at the hotel in Barcelona, but it was only free in the lobby for 30 minutes. To pay for 24 hours (that you could use in your room) was pretty expensive. But throughout the city, there were free WIFI kiosks/hotspots and if you stood on one foot, facing the right direction, you’d get a pretty good signal. Then we got on the cruise. We thought the hotel’s rates were expensive until we checked into the ship’s wireless internet. That was just highway robbery! Wireless internet in Portugal seems to be available everywhere, and free at the hotel. So our last day has been spent getting reconnected with the rest of the world and bringing the trip blog to a close.

TV (at least programs and channels) in English has been spotty. Mostly CNN and CNBC are in English and occasionally a program in English with Spanish or Portuguese subtitles. German is also very popular in Portugal.

A few days before the trip, we got a new camera. While the other one was ok, it was getting frustrating to always change the settings, etc. I really wanted one that was “idiot-proof”, take great pictures and still fit conveniently in my bag. Now we are using a Sony Cyber –Shot and love it!

As our trip comes to an end, it is fair to say that we have had a very pleasant experience in Spain, Portugal and on Silversea (cruise)!  We renewed several friendships and enjoyed meeting many new people.  But we are looking forward to the comforts and routines we left in the US.  :o)

Sintra, Cascais, seafood and Portuguese hamburgers

We had booked another tour with Inside Lisbon before leaving the US.  This time it was for an excursion outside the city of Lisbon to Sintra and Cascais

We met our guide, Sofia, at the designated meeting spot and along with a small group (young guy from Australia, couple from Germany and a gentleman from China), we were leaving the bustling metropolis of Lisbon. 

Along the way, Sofia pointed out many interesting places.

Queluz Palace

Queen Mary the Crazy

National Guard
 Part of the tour included a trip to the Pena National Palace and prior to visiting the palace, we walked/hiked through the beautiful park.


Queen's Throne - where she could look out over the city and also view the palace.

View of the Palace from the Queen's throne in the park.



"The Giant" looking out over the city.








Seteais Palace

Roca Cape - Westernmost point of Europe
 This was a very beautiful spot, but extremely windy!  Roca Cape is the same lattitude as New York City.

The varying shades of water, leading from shallow to deeper with the white at the horizon being clouds.
Pretty spectacular! 
 Thankfully no one got blown over and we were soon on our way again.
Guincho Beach is famous for the kite surfing.


Too windy for most sunbathers.
 The town of Sintra was very small and a tourist trap.  But we got to enjoy the people watching, have a little lunch and stoll about for a bit.

Our next stop was Cascais, a former fishing village.  And now "The Portugal Riviera".

View of Cascais overlooking the marina.



Cascais still remains an active fishing town.

The Cascais Mermaid looking out for the seagoing fisherman.

Casino Esteroil - inspiration for Casino Royale
 Whew!  It was a full day outside of Lisbon and thankfully the weather, while windy in some places, was nice.  Sofia was a great guide and offered some suggestions for dinner that evening.  We decided on Ribadouro, known for it's seafood and was right down the street from the hotel. 
Shellfish soup - almost like a bisque and very tasty

Top - veal with an egg and french fries.
Bottom - shrimp with potatoes and scrambled egg.  (Unbelievably amazing!)
 After dinner, we needed to walk off the delicious dinner we enjoyed and decided to take the "long way" back to the hotel.  We crossed the street and went down one more block to a smaller street that runs behind the fancy stores and shops.  We looked in the window and saw what appeared to be a food court!  (There was a sign for H3, which is a hamburger place our Gourmet Tour guide, Paolo told us about a few nights ago.)
 I must digress for a moment here because fast food (as we know it) in Portugal is pretty much non-existant.  Yes, there is a McDonald's near the main square, but they have only recently become accepted by the general population.  Portuguese take their food seriously and enjoy their mealtimes.  McDonald's here has had to modify their menu offerings in order to compete. For example, they have had to add traditional Portuguese soups, sausages, cod dishes, beer, (yes beer), etc.  So for roughly the same price as a McDonald's combo meal, you can get a grilled hamburger (with some very interesting toppings including eggs and foie gras), chips and a fresh limonada at H3.  So we decided we would have lunch there the next day.

Frank opted for the H3 Benedict (with a perfectly poached egg and sauteed spinach).
I went for the plain grilled H3.
You'll note they are served on china plates with real silverware, sans buns.  Portuguese people eat as much beef as they do seafood!  These burgers were thick, juicy and cooked perfectly!  Glad we ventured off the beaten path the other night otherwise we would have missed out on this local treasure, in a food court.

Red bus tour around Lisbon

Prior to our departure, we made arrangements for to spend a day on the "hop-on-hop-off" bus in Lisbon.  We have found this to be one of the best ways to get to know a city, learn the history and decide if there are any points of interest worth exploring further.

Apparently there are two companies that run similar operations in Lisbon, and they both have red buses.  Needless to say, we stood at one stop for quite a while before any bus showed up.  And when one did, it turned out to be the wrong company, but the driver was kind enough to suggested we cross the street-square-street to the other stop.  We did and happened upon some people from the cruise.  They had been waiting for over half an hour for a bus!  We waited a little longer with them, each surmising what the problem might be.  After a while, we called the number on our voucher.  The gentleman with the lovely British accent couldn't understand what the problem was or why we were at stop 22 when he only had a total of 17.  Everything he had showed the buses were running on time.  When we determined he was in Bath, England and we were in Lisbon, Portugal, everything became perfectly clear!  (Apparently the Avenue was closed to traffic because of needed to breakdown the concernt from the night before.  (See previous post.)  So, we walked up to the main bus stop where we hoped to find a bus.

Hard to believe this was a huge bandshell, full of electronics and people the night before.

We got to the stop just as the bus was leaving....
 

Bullring in Lisbon. 

Yes, we were in the top of the bus and that close to the airport.  :o)

City view.


Lisbon jail - making good use of those old forts.

Courthouse is conveniently located next to the prison.

Same statue, different view.

"Lion Building"

City gates

April 25th bridge

PadrĂ£o dos Descobrimentos



Tower of Belem

Park along the river.

Park at Jeronimos Monastery



Waiting for the next bus.

Fado Museum

National Pavillion.



Garden and zoo.
 As mentioned in previous posts from our time in Madrid and Barcelona, the young people in these countries are very upset over the economy and unemployment.  On Sunday, from our hotel room, we could see this group marching down the avenue in protest.

The protest group "sat down" in protest at one of the big squares.
Traffic was backed up for quite a few blocks and people were not happy.
 Dinner in Lisbon!  We really tried to stay away from the touristy places where the waiters come out on the promenade and offer you their menus and coupons.  We really could not wait until 10 or 11PM to eat dinner like the Lisboans.  But we did happen to find a little place that didn't have the very pushy waiters.
Yummy vegetable soup!
Typical Sunday Portuguese dinner - meats, potatoes, veggies, sausage and rice.


A view of "restaurant alley".
Was a full day exploring Lisbon and it ended with a very good dinner!

Next up:  Excursion to Sintra and Cascais